This past week I enjoyed the Memorial Day holiday weekend in St. Michaels, Maryland. Yes same surname as mine, Michaels, but no historical blood ties. This port side town is not only charming but also holds fascinating history and some famous nearby residents. It was a wonderful escape from the heat and city scene of bustling haze of Miami. It was also a great opportunity to revisit early American history.
Maryland is one of the original thirteen colonies of early American settlers escaping England in the 1600s hence the rich history and British influence in names. This town's name was derived from the Episcopal church established in 1677. The nickname was recorded a century later and was recounted that when the British wanted to target the town with cannonballs from their seaside ships to prevent a militia from forming, the town dimmed their lights and hung lanterns in the trees beyond the town. The cannonballs would overshoot and the town was spared.
Historic home in St. Michaels, Maryland |
Standing on a major bridge I could see land across the bay. Ahoy there! Sure enough I learned that ferries are another mode of transportation to cross the bay to reach another port instead of driving the 45 minutes to connect to land. One day I took the Oxford Bellevue ferry to visit Oxford, a town of 600 residents. The cost was a mere $5.00 round trip.
A 15 minute ride from port of Easton to Oxford |
The first sign to welcome me to Oxford |
Home with white picket fence, colorful garden beds and American flag |
Christine smells the red roses |
For dinner we visited the historic main streets of Easton and dined at Scossa Italian restaurant. Across the street was the old courthouse. In the center are American flags, lined with wooden benches. On the right side of the lawn is a statue of Frederick Douglass, one of my favorite heroes in American history.
Born Frederick Augustus Washington Bailey in Talbot County, Maryland he was a major figure in the abolition movement and the first African American to hold a high U.S. government rank. Born a slave, Douglass learned that reading and writing well were powerful. His tenacity and creative solutions to learn to read enabled him to discover the meaning of "abolition" upon buying his first anthology at age 12.
After escaping slavery, he took the name "Douglass" after a character in the poem The Lady of the Lake by Sir Walter Scott. He became an excellent orator and his fiery speeches and writing skills made him the most prominent African American abolitionist. He met President Lincoln three times and was a Republican. Douglass did not support radical abolitionists like William Garrison and John Brown. When Brown wanted to plan an armed slave rebellion, Douglass disapproved of it and distanced himself from activities regarding the extremists. Through speech and writing he was powerful in a major movement in American history. I'm reminded of the saying "the pen is mightier than the sword".
Frederick Douglass in his 30s |
In 1872 the Equal Rights Party nominated Douglass for Vice President of the U.S. Though he was nominated without his knowledge and did not campaign, this made Douglass the first African American to be nominated for the post.
Easton is a great city for raising a family or family vacations. There is something for everyone. Sailing, jet skiing, taking a ferry, crabbing, fishing--you name it.
Foxy's is a favorite casual place for bar bites and beer and drinks. It also has the best outdoor seating. The Lighthouse restaurant next door is newly renovated and under new management. The large windows overlooking the bay often make it the safer option without the worry of the unpredictable weather pattern. Same view without the cold or rain.
Seafood, especially oysters is the major industry for St. Michaels. By the late 19th century, most households had at least one person working in fishery, either tonging oysters or working in shucking houses.
Plenty of restaurants to choose from that offer oysters and great seafood such as lobster ravioli, crab, mussels and more. The most popular is Crab Claw restaurant on the waterfront. I did not try it yet. There is also Hunter's Tavern at Tidewater Inn (loved the Lobster in zesty lemon risotto). My favorite restaurant to date is Limoncello, a (relatively new-opened Nov 2016) fine upscale Italian restaurant. While not on the water, the food, service and ambiance were excellent!
Easton, Royal Oak and St. Michaels are approximately an hour and a half away from Baltimore-Washington International airport (BWI) in Hanover, Maryland, without traffic. Avoid driving there Friday after 3pm and returning Sundays. Everyone heads to the east coast on weekends and traffic is very heavy.
Stop at St. Michaels for a quiet, relaxing getaway with water views and activities all around you and enjoy fine dining, as well as a slice of history.
by Christine Michaels
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